Brill in Dunmore East: Irish Flat Fish Done Right

Brill is the flat fish most people don't know by name, but once you taste it off a Dunmore East day-boat, you remember it. Sweeter than plaice, firmer than sole, brill comes in on the morning tide and Peter at The Spinnaker Bar cooks it the same day — beer-battered with chips or grilled with lemon butter. This is how you eat brill in Dunmore East, straight from the harbour to the plate.

What is Brill and Why Dunmore East Brill is Different

Brill (Scophthalmus rhombus) is a left-eye flat fish, caught in the Celtic Sea off Dunmore East. It looks like turbot's smaller cousin — diamond-shaped, sandy brown skin with scattered dark spots. The flesh is white, sweet, dense. Brill feeds on sand eels and shrimp in the shallow banks off Hook Head and Mine Head, which gives the meat a clean, almost nutty flavour.

Dunmore East day-boats land brill year-round, but spring and early summer — March to June — is when you see the best size and condition. The boats fish 10-20 miles offshore, gillnets or trammel nets, and land the catch the same morning. Peter at The Spinnaker buys direct from the boats tied up 50 metres from the kitchen door. That's the difference — no middleman, no cold store, just fish that was swimming yesterday and on your plate today in Lower Village, Dunmore East.

How Peter Cooks Brill at The Spinnaker Bar

Peter does brill two ways: beer-battered with chips at €22.50 or grilled with lemon butter and vegetables on the side. The beer batter is the house recipe — light, crisp, not greasy. The brill fillet stays moist inside, sweet and flaky. Chips are double-fried, salt and vinegar on the table. If you want grilled, Peter does it skin-on for five minutes under high heat, then a knob of Irish butter with lemon zest and black pepper. The skin blisters and crisps, the flesh stays tender.

Brill is delicate, so Peter doesn't overcook it. The flesh turns opaque white and comes away in thick flakes when it's ready. No breadcrumb coating, no heavy sauces — just the fish and enough heat to bring out the natural sweetness. If you've never had brill, start with the beer-battered version. If you know flat fish, try the grilled so you taste the fish itself. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 to check if brill came in today, because it depends on what the boats land.

Brill vs. Plaice vs. Sole: What You're Actually Tasting

Plaice is the most common flat fish in Ireland, cheaper and thinner. The flesh is softer, less sweet. Sole — lemon sole or black sole — is more delicate, finer texture, but also more expensive and harder to source daily. Brill sits in the middle: firmer than plaice, meatier than sole, with a flavour that's closer to turbot. If you've eaten turbot and liked it, you'll like brill. If you find sole too subtle, brill has more character.

The price reflects scarcity. Brill is less common than plaice, so it costs more per kilo at the quay. But in Dunmore East, where the boats land it fresh, Peter at The Spinnaker can offer it at pub prices because there's no distributor margin. You're eating a premium flat fish at the price of a standard fish supper. That's the advantage of sitting in a working harbour pub where the kitchen door is 50 metres from the fish auction.

When to Eat Brill at The Spinnaker and What Else to Order

Brill availability depends on the boats. Spring and early summer are best, but you'll see it October through December too. If you're serious about eating brill in Dunmore East, ring Peter on (051) 383 133 the day before or morning-of and ask if brill landed. If it did, Peter will hold a portion for you. Walk-ins are welcome most days, but if you want a specific fish, booking ahead guarantees it.

Pair brill with mussels in chorizo and sherry broth at €14 as a starter, or the prawn cocktail at €12. If you're sharing, add the seafood chowder at €13.50 and split it. For sides, get the double-fried chips and a pint of lager — Harp or Heineken on draught. Dessert is €8.95: the crème brûlée or the chocolate orange tart if you want something rich after the clean flavour of the fish. Check Peter's Facebook page for this week's food service times.

Where The Spinnaker Bar is and How to Get There

The Spinnaker Bar sits on the harbour in Lower Village, Dunmore East, Co. Waterford. If you're driving from Waterford City, take the R683 south-east for 12 km, follow signs for Lower Village, and park in the public car park by the lifeboat station. The Spinnaker is the pub facing the water, pastel blue and white, tables on the deck in fine weather. If you're walking the Doneraile cliff path, the trail ends at Counsellor's Strand — walk 10 minutes east along the harbour road and you're at the door.

Inside it's a working harbour pub: wooden tables, big screen for Premier League and GAA, cold pints, local faces. Peter runs the kitchen and the bar himself, so service is personal. If you want to talk about the fish or the village or where the boats fish, Peter knows. If you just want to eat and watch the match, that works too. Email spinnakerbardunmore@gmail.com or message Peter on Facebook for group bookings or Friday and Sunday evenings.