Ling and Conger in Dunmore East: Old Irish Fish at The Spinnaker
Ling and conger eel used to be staples in Irish coastal kitchens. Both swim deep in the Celtic Sea off Dunmore East, caught by day-boats working the harbour. Peter at The Spinnaker Bar, Lower Village, Dunmore East cooks them when the boats bring them in — beer-battered, pan-fried, or in seafood pie. This is how these old fish taste when they're hours out of the water.
What Ling and Conger Eel Are
Ling is a long white fish from the cod family. It lives in deep rocky water, 100-400 metres down, off the Waterford coast. Firm white flesh, mild taste, holds together under heat. Conger eel is a grey-skinned sea eel that grows big — sometimes two metres long. It hides in wrecks and rock crevices. The meat is dense and slightly oily, nothing like river eel. Both were common in Irish fish markets until the 1970s, then fell out of fashion when processors wanted uniform fillets for supermarkets.
Day-boats still catch them off Dunmore East. The fleet works the Celtic Sea within twelve miles of the harbour mouth. Ling comes up on long-lines. Conger comes as bycatch in pots, sometimes on rod and line. When Peter gets a call from the boats, he takes what's fresh. That might be ling one week, conger the next, or plaice, pollock, mackerel, hake. The menu follows the tide and the weather.
How Peter Cooks Them at The Spinnaker
Peter runs the kitchen and the bar himself at The Spinnaker Bar & Restaurant. Ling fillets go into the beer batter for fish and chips — €22.50 with hand-cut chips and house tartare. The batter is light, the ling stays moist inside. Conger eel gets pan-fried with garlic butter and lemon, or diced into the seafood pie with hake, salmon, and prawns in cream sauce under puff pastry — €23. The pie comes with mash or chips and vegetables.
If you want to know what's on this week, ring Peter on (051) 383 133 or message him on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/p/The-Spinnaker-Bar-61579148378692/. He posts the current menu and opening hours there. Walk-ins are welcome most days. Friday and Sunday evenings, or any group of six or more, ring ahead so Peter can hold a table.
Why These Fish Disappeared from Menus
Ling and conger fell off Irish menus because they don't freeze well in blocks, they're hard to fillet uniformly, and supermarkets wanted predictable white fish year-round. Processors chose haddock, cod, and Alaskan pollock instead. The Irish fleet kept catching ling and conger, but most went to Spain, France, and Portugal where people still knew how to cook them.
In a working harbour pub like The Spinnaker, the old fish make sense again. Peter buys direct from boats tied up fifty metres from the kitchen door. No cold chain, no wholesaler markup, no three-day transport. The fish that comes in on Tuesday morning is on the plate Tuesday night. Ling and conger taste better fresh than frozen, so they suit a pub kitchen that cooks to order. Price stays reasonable because there's no middleman. You're eating what the village has always eaten, cooked the way it's always been cooked.
Other Seafood Peter Serves
The full menu at The Spinnaker Bar includes seafood chowder €13.50, prawn cocktail €12, mussels €14 in chorizo, sherry, cream, or garlic with bread. Wings €14 buffalo or bbq. Greek salad, beef burger, chicken korma, vegetable korma, pizzas. 8oz striploin steak €37, lamb shank €27. Sunday roast on the day. Desserts include cheesecake, creme brulee, strawberry mousse, chocolate orange tart — €8.95. Sides are chips, mash, vegetables, or salad at €5.
Peter changes the fish specials depending on what the boats land. If you want ling or conger specifically, message him ahead at spinnakerbardunmore@gmail.com or on Facebook. He'll tell you what's coming in that week. The bar overlooks the harbour at Lower Village, Dunmore East, Co. Waterford. Cold pints, Premier League and GAA on the big screen, live music on the deck at weekends when the weather allows.
Getting to The Spinnaker in Dunmore East
Dunmore East sits twelve kilometres south-east of Waterford City at the mouth of the Suir where it meets the Celtic Sea. Population around 1,500. Working fishing village with thatched cottages, pastel-painted houses, a lifeboat station, and a stone harbour built in the 1820s. The cliff walk at Doneraile runs along the headland. Counsellor's Strand is the main beach. Sailing, fishing, walking.
The Spinnaker Bar is on the harbour front in the Lower Village. Look for the blue and white building facing the water. Park on the road or in the public car park near the pier. If you're walking the Doneraile cliff path, it's a twenty-minute loop back to the harbour. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 if you're coming Friday or Sunday evening, or if you're a group of six or more. Walk-ins welcome other times. Check this week's hours on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/p/The-Spinnaker-Bar-61579148378692/ before you drive down.
Book a table — go straight to Peter
Peter is the new owner of The Spinnaker Bar in Dunmore East. He runs the kitchen and the bar himself, so booking goes direct to him — no app, no fee, no middleman.
Or message Peter on the Spinnaker Facebook page — he checks it daily.
Quick questions
Does The Spinnaker Bar serve ling and conger eel year-round?
Peter serves ling and conger when the day-boats land them in Dunmore East harbour. The catch depends on weather, season, and what's running offshore. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 or message him on Facebook to ask what fish is fresh this week. He buys direct from the boats, so the menu follows what's available. Most weeks there's at least one local white fish option — ling, pollock, hake, or plaice.
What's the difference between ling and conger eel?
Ling is a white fish from the cod family with firm mild flesh. It lives on rocky seabeds 100-400 metres deep. Conger eel is a large grey sea eel that hides in wrecks and rocks. The meat is denser and slightly oily. Both are caught off Dunmore East by local boats. Ling works well in beer batter or grilled. Conger suits pan-frying with garlic butter or dicing into seafood pie. Peter at The Spinnaker cooks both when they come in fresh.
How much is the fish and chips at The Spinnaker Bar?
Beer-battered fish is €22.50 with hand-cut chips and house tartare sauce. Peter uses whatever white fish the day-boats land — often ling, pollock, or hake. The batter is light, the fish is hours out of the water. Seafood pie is €23 with mash or chips and vegetables. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 to book, or walk in most days. Friday and Sunday evenings, ring ahead.
Where is The Spinnaker Bar in Dunmore East?
The Spinnaker Bar is in Lower Village, on the harbour front in Dunmore East, Co. Waterford. Blue and white building facing the water. Dunmore East is twelve kilometres south-east of Waterford City at the mouth of the River Suir. Park on the road or in the public car park near the pier. Walk-ins welcome most days. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 for Friday or Sunday evenings, or groups of six or more.