Sea Bass in Dunmore East: Fresh Off the Irish Coast

Sea bass comes into Dunmore East harbour on the day-boats most mornings. The fishing fleet ties up fifty metres from The Spinnaker Bar, Lower Village, Dunmore East, and Peter — the owner — walks down to see what's landed. When the sea bass is in, he cooks it fresh. Pan-fried, grilled or baked with lemon and herb butter. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 to ask what's landed today and book your table.

Why Dunmore East Sea Bass Tastes Different

Dunmore East sits where the River Suir meets the Celtic Sea, at the mouth of Waterford Harbour. The water here is cold, clean and tidal. Sea bass feed on the sandbanks and reefs along the coast, hunting mackerel fry, sandeels and crabs. The local day-boats — small inshore vessels — work a five-mile radius. They land their catch within hours. No refrigerated hold for three days. No long-haul trawler. The fish comes off the boat, onto the quay, and into the kitchen the same morning.

Peter at The Spinnaker Bar buys direct from the boats when the quality's right. He looks for firm flesh, bright eyes, red gills. If the sea bass isn't perfect, he doesn't buy it. That's the difference between harbour-side and supermarket. You taste the salt. The flesh is sweet, dense, clean. No muddy finish. No ammonia edge. Just sea bass that was swimming yesterday.

How Peter Cooks Sea Bass at The Spinnaker

Peter cooks sea bass three ways depending on the size of the fish and what you prefer. Pan-fried fillets with garlic butter, lemon and parsley. Whole fish grilled with olive oil, thyme and sea salt. Or baked in foil with white wine, cherry tomatoes and capers. He serves it with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables — usually purple sprouting broccoli, samphire or garden peas depending on the month. No fuss. No foam. Just the fish and what it needs.

The kitchen at The Spinnaker Bar, Lower Village, Dunmore East is open most days for lunch and dinner. Peter posts this week's food times on Facebook at facebook.com/p/The-Spinnaker-Bar-61579148378692. Ring (051) 383 133 to book, especially Friday and Sunday evenings or any group of six or more. Walk-ins welcome most other days, but if you want the sea bass, ring ahead so Peter knows to hold a portion.

The Dunmore East Fishing Fleet and What They Land

Dunmore East has been a fishing port since the 1700s. The harbour was built by Alexander Nimmo in the 1820s to shelter the herring boats. Today the fleet is smaller — a dozen inshore boats, a few netters, a couple of rod-and-line mackerel boats in summer. They land mackerel, pollock, haddock, plaice, turbot, monkfish, crab, lobster and sea bass depending on the season and the weather.

Sea bass season runs roughly April to November, though the boats catch them year-round if conditions allow. The fish move inshore in spring to spawn, then hang around the reefs and rocky ground feeding through summer and autumn. By winter they drop offshore into deeper water. The best eating is May to October when the fish are fat and firm. Peter buys what's landed fresh that morning. If the boats don't go out, he doesn't have sea bass. If they do, he does. Email spinnakerbardunmore@gmail.com or message Peter on Facebook to ask what's on today.

Where to Eat Sea Bass with a Harbour View

The Spinnaker Bar sits on the waterfront in the Lower Village, fifty metres from where the boats tie up. The deck overlooks the harbour, the lifeboat station and the cliffs across the bay. You can watch the fleet come in while you eat. Cold pint of lager or a glass of white wine. Sea bass with lemon butter. Chips on the side. The deck is open when the weather's decent — usually April to October, sometimes into November if it stays mild.

Live music on the deck most weekends in summer. Peter posts the schedule on Facebook each week. Ash and Laura play sometimes — check the page for current acts. Every Premier League and GAA match on the big screen inside if the weather turns. The atmosphere is working harbour pub. Fishermen, sailors, locals, walkers off the Doneraile cliff path, families down for the day. No pretence. Just good fish, cold beer and a view of the boats.

What Else is on the Menu Besides Sea Bass

If the sea bass isn't landed today, Peter still has fresh seafood every day the boats go out. Seafood chowder €13.50, thick with haddock, salmon, mussels and prawns. Mussels €14 in white wine, garlic and cream with crusty bread. Beer-battered fish €22.50 — usually haddock or pollock, depending what's freshest. Seafood pie €23 with prawns, smoked salmon and cod in a creamy sauce under puff pastry. Prawn cocktail €12 if you want to start simple.

Not in the mood for fish? Lamb shank €27, slow-cooked until the meat falls off the bone. 8oz striploin steak €37, cooked how you like it. Chicken korma €22 with rice and naan. Vegetable korma €20 if you're vegetarian. Beef burger €20. Pizzas from €13.50 to €21. Sunday roast on the day. Desserts €8.95 — cheesecake, crème brûlée, strawberry mousse, chocolate orange tart. Ring Peter on (051) 383 133 to book your table at The Spinnaker Bar, Lower Village, Dunmore East, Co. Waterford.